Monday, 14 March 2016

Finally something for Ian . . .

Today we finally saw some historical sites.  Yes, we still visited a modern house from the 1430`s, but we also saw the remains of a 2nd C. Roman Aqueduct and a Gallo-Roman tower, marking what was probably a wealthy family's estate and mausoleum.  We also visited Chinon, famous for Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine, Richard II and Prince John, and Jean D`Arc.


We started the morning off at Luynes where we saw the remains of a Roman aqueduct with 9 arches still standing.  It may have been built to provide water to a private villa.  The pillars of the aqueduct were incorporated into the wall of a "modern" farm house, and the fence for a field with sheep. It was another glorious day of sunshine, although the wind was nippy!


Ian in his natural environment.



After the aqueduct we visited a Boulangerie in Luynes and bought sandwiches for dinner.  Although we love the gourmet restaurant at our hotel, it is un petite cher pour nous, at least for every meal.  Luynes reminded Margaret of the wool towns she visited in Gloucester with Kathleen, especially the timber and brick houses, and the covered market built in 1535, and still in use today.



From Luynes we continud on to Cinq Mars where we saw the red brick Gallo Roman tower standing, intact after 1,800 years, at 30 meters in height.  It is solid all the way through, and although it is clearly visible from the river, it was probably not intended for navigation, but as a combination property boundary marker and funerary marker.



Next we went to Langeais and saw the Chateau there.  It retains more of its medieval character than others which were heavily renovated in the Renaissance and later.  It also has more furnishings from the late Medieval era, as it was purchased by a private individual in the early 1800's, who restore to its original character.  More of the furnishings were around almost 200 years closer to the time in question than there is today.  This Chateau is famous for hosting the marriage between Henry II of France and Anne of Brittany - keeping Brittany out of the hands of the Holy Roman Empire.  Anne had originally been betrothed to Emperor Maximillian.

Bed on the right, tapestry on the wall, real credenza from the fifteenth century (essentially a chest on legs) in the centre.

This room was set up for a banquet.  Even the banquet  tables were trestle tables that were removed after the meal.

These waxwork figures depict the wedding between the King of France and Anne of Bretagne.  Their marriage contract said that if the king died without issue, Anne would marry the next king, and just over her shoulder is her next husband, the future Louis XII.
Medieval Scaffolding

The town around Chateau Langeais is very pretty, and once must have had several mills.  The river and mill ponds are still there.  We had crepes and tea for lunch and then continued on to our next Chateau.



On our way to Azay-Le-Rideau we both agreed we were starting to get chateaued out.  Although they are very interesting, we felt we had got the gist of chateaus royale:   kings moved around, chests were the most important furnishings, beds were statements, and tapestries were both beautiful and portable ways of keeping the chills from the walls from getting into the room.  We both decided that although they are interesting and very beautiful, we needed a break. 

Of course, this conversation took place on our way to another chateau.  Azay-Le-Rideau is famous for its exterior, so we agreed we would just look at the outside.  However, when we got there it was covered in scaffolding and tarps, like a leaky condo, so we skipped it altogether.

The entrance to La Fortresse Royale de Chenin.

At that point we decided to go to the Castle at Chinon, and we were very glad we did.  We had not known the historical significance of the place: Fortress of the Ducs of Anjou, Plantagenet stronghold, death place of Henry II of England, conquered by Philip II of France, and meetig place between Charles VII and Jean d`Arc.  Wow, for anyone interested in the French/English history of the 12-13 Century, this is the place to be.  Since one of our favourite movies is The Lion in Winter, it was thrilling to be walking in the footsteps of Eleanor of Aquitaine and  Henry II.




The castle has incredible and commanding views of the Loire.  The presentation of the chateau is interesting, as one carries a guidebook with a chip, and when one enters a room it triggers a multimedia show.  We practically had the whole place to ourselves.  Ian thought the multimedia was interesting, but inefficient, since the paragraph of information that appeared between shows was the most informative.



The dove coat at the top of one of the towers.

The latrines at the bottom of the same tower.

Ian on the ramparts.

It is also the place where Joan of Arc recognized the true king when he had switched with one of his courtiers -- one of the best bits of St. Joan.  Is it sad that we know most of our history through drama?

This was our last stop of the day, and it also did us in.  We went to the very bottom most level of one the towers, and the climb back up was taxing for our still out of shape legs.

The drive back to the hotel through Tours in rush hour was also taxing, but outside of that traffic was light and driving through the French countryside a pleasure.   Tomorrow we are off to sleep in a chateau!


No comments:

Post a Comment