Chateaux and Leonardo

We arrived at Hotel Le Flueray just before dark Saturday evening, checked in and made a reservation for dinner.  The next morning we had breakfast and then set out on our Chateau tour.  We had plans to see 3 or 4 chateau, but only managed two.  Well 3 if you count Chateau du Close Luce, Leonardo Di Vinci`s last home.

Although Ian wrote most of today's blog, I have to tell you about our first adventure of the day, when moments after leaving our hotel we came across a bike gang, or cycling club.  We weren't sure of the protocol, especially since one rider was riding down the middle of the opposing lane, so after a few minutes we decided to pull over and see what the car behind us would do if in front.   She did nothing either, but eventually another car came and passed both of us and the cyclists, so she pulled out, so WE pulled out, and passed. The cyclists whistled at us -- in admiration?

Back to Ian:   The first Chateau was the Royal Chateau at Amboise.  This chateau, built on an imposing height overlooking the Loire river and the town of Ambois, was a nursery to the Kings of France.  It was also the Royal capital for a time.

The chateau seen from the top of the natural promontary on the Loire River.

 Breathtaking views from the belvedere of the Chateau Amboise.

Leonardo is buried in the chapel.  He was originally buried in the church in the town, but was moved when the church was destroyed.

The first floors of the chateau are decorated in the Sixteenth Century style, and the second floor, seen above, is decorated in Empire style.  The two towers have ramps, rather than stairs, allowing guards to gallop up on horseback.  Walking up and down these ramps reminded us a bit of a car park.

 On our walk up the hill, I was surprised to see cave dwellings in the cliff face, many still lived in.

After visiting the Royal Chateau we walked up the hill to the Close Luce, which is where Leonardo moved in 1516, invited by Francois I.  He became the royal artist and engineer and may have had a hand in designing Chateau Chambord.

The chateau du Close Luce is furnished in renaissance fashion and also houses a museum of replica machines built to Leonardo`s designs.

 Below you can see the kitchen of the house.  Leonardo Da Vinci must have warmed himself at this same fire many times.  He left his black robe, trimmed with fur to his vegetarian cook.

The most amusing scene of the day was the real life cat sleeping on Leonardo`s 16th century bed.  This is the room he died in:  cat's have no respect!

The final chateau we visited today was Chenonceau.  This was the most evocative for me and is also one of the most picturesque, as it is built on piers straddling the Cher river, making it, in effect, a bridge.

This chateau was originally built by Thomas Bohier and his wife Catherine Briconnet in the early 1500`s, but by the end of the 17th C. it was known as the Lady`s Chateau, passing through the hands of Diane de Poitiers (Mistress to Henry II), Catherine de Medici (wife of Henry II), and Louise of Lorraine (wife of Henry III).

After Louise, the Chateau passed out of Royal ownership and in the early 1700`s Louise Dupin made it a fashionable Salon with the likes of Russeau, and Voltaire in attendance.

During WW I the chateau served a a hospital and many patients were able fish out the windows in the great hall where the ward was located.  In WW II the Cher river marked the border between Vichy and Occupied France with part of the chateau being in each zone.  The Great Hall straddling the river became a conduit for smuggling Jews and other wanted people out of Occupied France and into Vichy.  One could enter the house in one Zone and leave it in the other.

The Great Hall

This kitchen was in use since the chateau was built  until very recent times.  This modern range was installed in WWI, when the chateau served as a hospital for the seriously wounded.

The Louis IV salon, named after the king who visited here and gave a portrait of himself (beside the fire place) to the owners of the chateau.

The "White Queen" room as decorated (in black with silver tears) by the widow of Francis II, killed in a jousting accident.  White was the colour of mourning for royal widows.

This beautiful chest was given to Mary, later Queen of Scots, and her husband the dauphin, upon their marriage.  Mary was one of the five queens who lived here and heard mass in the chapel.

After a walk through the gardens and the maze, we drove back to Hotel Le Fleuray And made another reservation for dinner.  Dinner here is a menu, and was fantastic last night and tonight.  Tonight we are both tired, and didn't linger -- less than three hours for dinner!

Le Fleuray Hotel and Restaurant.  Last night (samedi) it was full, tonight there were only four people.  The food and the service were excellent on both occasions.As always, my favourite course of the meal is the premiere.

Driving today was a pleasure.  There was almost no traffic.